Welcome to an issue packed full of Shanghai surprises. Modern day Shanghai is a city that never stops: gleaming skyscrapers rise from what were once tree-lined streets; taxis, cars and vans scream along roads where the bicycle used to rule; and crumbling findesiécle architecture whispers a faded reminder of earlier days. Once known as a hotbed of decadence, the 1930s Paris of the East, late 20th century Shanghai looks set to regain its place as the vibrant, entrepreneurial hub of China. Archaeologist Pia Pierre sees Shanghai's appeal; her high-ceilinged, airy house in the French Concession is a showcase for her love of traditional Chinese furniture and Art Deco design. For the visitor, flea market shopping is an unmissable experience - dusty yet delightful. Hat boxes, mao badges, furniture, gramophones, old leather suitcases - some fake, some real, but all exceptionally collectible.